Ok, as requested, here is a comprehensive tutorial on my process for making the duct tape portraits I've been posting. Please note, there is always more than one way to skin the proverbial cat. My own process has undergone some changes here and there. For this tutorial, I have opted to not use the transparency method. For starters, I have already outlined this process. As well, I have found that the strength of the glue on the tape is not consistent, so at times the tape can be exceedingly difficult to remove from the transparency when dealing with larger pieces.
So, for this method, I am using more of a "tracing" method than a stenciling method. To produce this tutorial, I have documented the steps of the creation of the latest in my series - Freddie Mercury!
Here we go....
THINGS YOU'LL NEED:- Two contrasting colors of duct tape
- some heavy cardboard
- a hobby knife, and preferably some replacement blades
- a computer with good photo editing software (Photoshop)
- a printer (and, if you're to do yours like mine, a boat load of ink...)
STEP 1: Getting your base portrait image.You need to start with a photograph of your subject. Sometimes finding "just the right" photo is a trick. There were several images I found hunting around with Google that I would have liked to use, but they were not very accommodating with Step 2, so I had to abandon them. Specifically, if the image has a lot of medium tones, it does not work all that well. Look for images with a good deal of contrast already.
STEP 2: Creating a Positive/Negative image.The key to these is that you need an image composed of nothing but black and white tones. No grayscales. No gradients. Take your image into your favorite photo editing software (read: Photoshop). First, make sure the image mode is "Grayscale". Discard all color data. Next, bring up the contrast/brightness adjustment (in PS, under Image/Adjust) and set the contrast to 100%. Next (without committing the change), move your brightness slider back and forth while watching the preview of the image and settle on the brightness level that will give you a good, recognizable image. Be weary of excessive dots, as they will make your job considerably harder later on. For starters, you may wish to work on a simple image. You'll know when you have it.
Once you've got it right, commit the changes and save the image as a copy.
STEP 3: Making your stencils.
Print 2 copies of the image you created on a full page. You may need to resize your image to make it fill the page.
STEP 4: Making your canvas.
You can use nearly anything as a canvas, but I find that if you wish to wall hang these, it is best to have something with a bit of depth. Originally, I was using a cardboard lid from a small box of printer paper (100 sheet box), but I only had a couple of these so I had to improvise. As you'll see in the picture below, a pizza box worked just nicely (despite the minor grease stains).
Cut the cardboard so you have tabs along the edges that can be folded back to make sides and give your canvas depth.
Next, begin to apply strips of duct tape in your background color (in my case, black).
Run strips of duct tape along your canvas, overlapping each strip halfway, until you've completely covered your canvas.
STEP 5: Setting up for cutting
Use a cutting board about the size of your overall canvas. In this case, I am using a scrap piece of laminate flooring, but any hard surface would do fine.
Begin to lay strips of your foreground color (in my case, white). Again overlap each strip halfway. Please note: for your starter row, run two strips one directly on top of the other, then begin your third strip overlapping the double-layered starter row. This is important, because you must be sure that you have at least two layers of duct tape everywhere.
Continue until you have covered your whole board with duct tape.
STEP 6: Cutting your body.
Here we get down to the important part. The reason you printed two copies of your stencil image is because we are going to cut one of them up, and you will want to have one to use as a guideline throughout the rest of the process.
Lay your print over your cutting board and hold it tightly in place. This is a little tricky, and as you go about cutting it is important that you do not allow the paper to move or your cuts will be inaccurate.
While cutting, it is important to understand that you are not at all interested in the finer details of your image. Look only for the large shapes. Cut across lines if you have to. Don't worry too much about it. Just get the basic shapes accurate. Think about contour lines, not detail lines. In my example, I didn't care much about the detail around the edges of his haiir, not any of the detail of his face. I cared only about getting the basic contours of his face, the top of his hair, and his hands.
Once you've finished cutting your basic shapes, remove your stencil and re-cut all your lines. Holding the cutting board up to the light will help you see your cut marks and allow you to trace along them with your hobby knife. It is important to make sure you've adequately cut all along your lines. Pay particular attention to tighter corners and curves. You don't want to have a bunch of places still connected when you try and remove your piece, and if you have any finer strips that are still connected they will stretch or tear.
STEP 7: Applying your body.
Gently peel up your cut out piece. It is important to start peeling from the side of the cutting board where you started your strips of tape. If you try and peel from the wrong side, your layers of tape will have a tendency to separate and make a mess of itself.
Once you've carefully lifted the piece from your cutting board, apply it to your canvas. Use your second printed image as a guide for placement. HINT: You can use the seams on your piece to orient it vertically on your canvas.
Do this for all the larger portions of foreground pattern.
CAUTION: Please be careful with a hobby knife. They are sharp. Note the sudden appearance of a bandaid on my index finger.
STEP 8: Detail detail detail!
Remove the remaining tape from your cutting board (or use another one, as I did), lay out a strip of both your foreground and background colors. These need not be two layers thick - one will suffice.
Using your printed image as a guide, begin to cut small pieces by eye and apply them as needed to fill in the detail of your image. It is helpful to focus on one area of your image at a time. Work the face starting with eyes, then moving on to nose, mouth, etc. Work on the hair in small segments trying to reproduce what you see on your printed image. You can apply combinations of foreground and background colors in layers to create any shape imaginable.
Along the way, use common sense and think about how you might reproduce the shapes you see. However, it's worth noting that it doesn't have to be perfect. Certain details like eyes, mouth and nose should be as close as you can get, as these are the things that give your subject it's recognizable character. But the finer points of clothing wrinkles, hair strands, etc, need only be approximations. But remember, the smaller the pieces and the finer the detail, the better it will look!
Duct tape is a VERY forgiving medium to work with. If something doesn't look right, peel it off and reapply. You can cut away and trim areas as needed even after it is applied. As well, you can add additional layers as you see fit to create the image you are after.
I hope this tutorial has been informative, and has inspired you to give it a try yourself. But please, if you do, be kind and share your work on DuctTapeNation.Net!
Cheers!
db
NOTE: Special thanks to Myst for shooting the images.
